Whether you're whipping up a simple nymph, crafting a complex streamer or a sleek surf candy, glue is the unsung hero holding our creations together. From adding durability to finishing a neat head, the right adhesive makes a world of difference. But with traditional cements, super glues, and UV resins all vying for space on your tying bench, which one should you reach for? Let's break down the sticky situation.
The Classics: Head Cements
- Pros: Penetrates thread well (especially thinner formulas), creates a hard, durable, often glossy finish (can be built up in layers), relatively inexpensive
- Cons: Requires drying time (minutes to hours depending on type and coats), solvent fumes can be strong (use ventilation), can sometimes wick into unintended materials if applied too heavily
- Examples: Loon Outdoors Hard Head, Wapsi Fly Tying Head Cement, Sally Hansen Hard As Nails (a popular non-tying specific option and available in supermarkets)
My current favourite head cement is Loon Outdoors Water Based Head Cement, which is use for finishing heads, gluing dumbbell eyes, and foam bodies.
The Super Glues: Cyanoacrylates
These are the instant adhesives — cyanoacrylates or CA glues — common in households but also invaluable at the tying desk. They come in various viscosities, from water-thin to thicker gels.
- Pros: Cures extremely fast (seconds!), forms a strong, rigid bond, thin versions penetrate thread instantly, great for quick fixes or securing slippery materials mid-tie (like bead eyes or wire ribs). Gel versions offer more control and gap-filling
- Cons: Can make thread brittle, may fog clear materials (like plastic eyes), short working time requires precision, fumes can irritate eyes, slightly irritating odour but this odour — primarily noticeable during application and curing, can accidentally glue fingers or parts to the vise (ask me how I know)
- Examples: Zap-A-Gap, Loctite Super Glue (various formulas), Gorilla Glue Super Glue
The Modern Marvels: UV Glues aka Light-Cured Resins
These resins have revolutionised many aspects of fly tying. They remain liquid until exposed to a specific wavelength of ultraviolet (UV) light, at which point they cure almost instantly.
- Pros: Cures "on demand" in seconds under UV light, near-infinite working time before curing, allows precise placement and shaping, available in various viscosities (thin, thick, flex) for coating bodies, building heads/wing cases, or making repairs. Generally low odour/fumes. Creates a very durable, often glossy finish
- Cons: Requires a dedicated UV light source (an added cost), generally more expensive per volume than other glues, some formulas can remain slightly tacky if under-cured or if the light isn't optimal, quality varies between brands
- Examples: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish (Thin, Thick, Flow, Flex), Solarez (Bone Dry, Thin, Thick, Flex), Gulff Resins (Thinman, Thickman, Flexman), RaidZap
My current favourites are the Gulff resins, especially in the flex and thin formulas. Loon Outdoors also makes a really cool range of UV coloured resins which are great for adding hot spots and coloured heads.
Wavelengths of Light for Curing — UV glues cure when exposed to specific wavelengths of ultraviolet light. The most common wavelength range for curing fly tying UV glues is between 365 and 405 nanometres. This falls within the ultraviolet A (UVA) spectrum. Dedicated UV torches designed for fly tying emit light within this range, ensuring efficient and reliable curing. After curing with a torch, if you want and even better finish, leave your flies out in the sun for a few minutes.
Why Use One Over the Other?
- For a traditional, glossy built-up head: Multiple thin coats of head cement are hard to beat, though UV thick can build a head quickly
- For instantly securing materials mid-tie: A tiny drop of thin super glue is excellent for locking down wire ribs, foam, dumbbell eyes, or synthetics exactly where you want them, fast
- For coating bodies, making wing cases, or building durable heads quickly: light cured glues excel here, offering control, speed (on demand cure), and various finishes (hard, flexible)
- For maximum penetration on final thread wraps: Thin head cement or thin super glue works well. Thin UV resin can also penetrate effectively.
- When flexibility is needed: Specific UV Flex formulas are designed for this. Most other glues cure rigid
- Budget/Simplicity: Head cement and super glue are generally cheaper and don't require purchasing a UV light
Top Tips for Fly Tying Glues
- Less is More: Apply glues sparingly, especially thin ones. A little goes a long way. Too much can clog hook eyes or ruin the fly's look. Use a fine-tipped applicator like a bodkin
- Match Glue to the Job: Don't use thick UV resin when deep penetration is needed, or super glue when you need time to shape a head. Pick the right tool for the task
- Ventilation is important: Always work in a well-ventilated area when using solvent-based head cements or cyanoacrylate super glues
- Keep Applicators Clean: Wipe your bodkin tip frequently to prevent messy build-up and ensure precise application. Clogged applicator nozzles are frustrating.
- Protect Your Vise & Fingers: Be mindful when using fast-setting super glues and protect your vise jaws from drips
Final words...
There's no single "best" glue – the ideal choice depends on the fly, the materials, and your personal tying style. Many fly tiers keep all three types on their bench, using each for its specific strengths. Don't be afraid to experiment and see which adhesives help you tie better, more durable flies. Happy tying!
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